richard



(No Model.)

Patented July 3, 1883.

WITNESSES: INVENTOR:

' s By 111's Attorneys;

N FKYERS. Phata-Liihogrlphnr, Washingten. 0.1.

5 Sheets-Sheet 1.,

(No Model.)

J. E. RICHARD. QVERSTITGHING MACHINE.

No. 280.765. Patented July 3, 1883.

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WITNESSES: INVENTOR; I

W By Iu's'Az'iorneys,

u. mans PMv-Liibogrlphan Washington. ac

5 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.) 5 Sheds-Sheet 3.

J. E. RICHARD. OVERSTITGHING MACHINE.

No. 280,765. 1 Patented July 3, 1883.

7 m a R WITNESSES: INVENTORz' I i I I l dq [60144442- N. PETERS. mmwnw, With-um uvc,

(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 4.

J. E. .RIGHARD. OVERSTITGHING MACHINE.

No; 280,765. 1 Patented July 3, 1883.

WITNESSES: INVENTOR:

E lie i a ybjs Attorneys,

u. PETERS MLnbcmphun wan-awn u. v:

(No Model.) 5 Shgetg-Sheet 5 J. E. RICHARD. OVERSTITGHING MACHINE.

No. 280,765. Patented July 3, 1883..

WITNESSES: INVENTOR:

' By his Afforneyg W I 271% cation.

UNITED STATES PATENT OEFicE.

' JEAN E. RICHARD, OF YORK, N. Y.

OVERSTITCHING- MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 280,765, ,dated July 3, 1883.

Application filed August 4, 1882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, J BANE. Rrormm), a citizen of the United States, residing in the city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain Improvements in Overstitching- Machines, of which the following is a specifillIy invention relates to an overstitchingmachine, designed for sewing gloves, furs, hatsweats, and all other things where overstitching is required.

The novel features of the invention extend throughout the entire machine, and will be definitely set forth in the claims.

In the drawings which serve to illustrate my invention, Figure 1 is a plan of the machine with the cap removed to reveal the mechanism inside the casing. Fig. 2 is a sectional elevation taken substantially on line 2 2, in Fig. 1, showing most of the machine in side elevation. Fig. 3 is a sectional elevation taken on line 3 3 in Fig. 1, the plane of the section being in the axis of the needle-bar and feed-wheel. Fig. 4 is a horizontal section through the base of the feed-wheel on line 4 4 in Fig. 2, showing the feed-lever in plan, detached. Fig. 5 is a detached sectional view, showing the spring arranged to give a lateral motion to the looperarm. Fig. 6 is a plan of part of the cap, showing the spools-holder and tension device in plan. Fig. 7 is a plan of the tension-bar detached. Fig. 8 is an end elevation of the tension device, the view being taken from the opposite direction to that in Fig. 2. Figs. 9, 10, and 11 are respectively a front view, side view, and rear view of the hook or looper detached and enlarged. Fig. 12 is a side elevation of the take-up cam and lever detached and enlarged. Fig. 13 is a bottom view of the feed-wheel. Fig. 14 is a section on line 14 14 in Fig. 1. Fig. 15 is a modification of the mechanism for actuating the feed-wheel, being a vertical mid section and a bottom view. Figs. 16 and 17 are respectively a side and rear elevation of the attachment for holding the materials in stitching hat-sweats. Fig. 17 is an enlarged front view of the binder.

A represents a hollow casing for the mechanism, which is, or may be, provided with feet or lugs a a, by which to secure the machine to a suitable table or bench. In this casing the main driving-shaft B has suitable bearings at b b.

O is the fly-wheel, and D the driving-belt sheave. These" are of the kind usually employed in sewing-machines.

On the main shaft B are fixed, first, an ordinary eccentric or cam, E, to actuate the feedwheel, a cam, F, to actuate the take-up lever, a cam, G, to actuate the looper-arm, and a cam, H, to actuate the needle-bar. These-are all adjusted and fixed in their proper positions on the shaft.

I is a pressure-wheel with a serrated periphery, mounted to rotate freely on a vertical axis, 0, on the curved arm J, which arm is fixed adjustably in a socket in a projection on the casing, where it is held by means of a setscrew, d. The end of the arm J, where it fits in the socket, is flattened on top, and a plate or piece, 6, slides through a mortise in the socket-piece over the flattened face of the arm. On this plate the screw is set down to hold the arm in place. This is best shown in Fig. 14. The arm may of course be moved out or in to adjust the wheel I to the proper position with respect to the looper. This is quite important, as the edge of this wheel next to the casing forms an abutment for the feed-wheel K, and between these wheels the materials to be sewed-f in the leading figures-is gripped.

Therefore the position of wheel I determines the sewing-point. This construction also enables me to use wheels I of different diameters, which is sometimes a great advantageas, for example, where it is desired to stitch around a small circle, as the end of a tube, a small wheel is a necessity, while for straight and heavy work a large wheel is preferable, as it has a firmer bite on the goods.

Proceeding in the proper order, I will now describe the feeding mechanism with especial reference to Figs. 1, 3, and 4.

The feed-wheel K is milled, roughened, or serrated in the usual way, and is mounted to rotate on an axis, fixed in a base-piece, L. Into this base-piece is screwed or otherwise fixed a bar, M, which extends back through a bearing, h, in the casing, and finds a bearing for its rear extremity in a tubular thumb-nut, 6. On this bar is a collar or shoulder, j, and between this collar and the end of the nut '5 is arranged a spring, k. This spring, by abutting against the nut '5, causes the feed-wheel K to press elastically against the fixed wheel I. To steady the base-plate L in its movement, I employ a guide-rod, Z, which has a bearing in the casing A. This rod prevents the bar M from turning on its axis. As the spring presses the feed-wheel up to wheel I, by abutting against nut i, it is obvious that by screwing said nut out or in the tension of the spring may be varied, and the pressure of feed-wheel on the material f be made light or heavy. To throw the feed-wheel back so as to enter the materials to be stitched, I employ a forked arm, m, fixed on a cross-shaft, n, rotatively mounted in the casing. The fork-or it may be a slotin arm on engages apin, 0, in the bar M, and when the shaft n is rotated by means of an arm, 1), 011 its exterior end, the bar M is drawn back, carrying the feed-wheel with it. A treadle may be attached to the free end of arm 1), whereby the feed-wheel can'be drawn back by the foot but this is immaterial, except as a convenience. The feed-wheel is intermittently rotated as follows: The said wheel has a cylindrical base, q, and encircling this base is a closely-fitting ring, 0', to which is rigidly fixed an arm, 8, having a slot, 2%, formed in its end. N is a feed-lever (which is of a beIl-crank form for convenience) pivoted to the casing at a. One end, 2;, of this lever is provided with a pin, 10. which engages the slot 25, and the other end, 1), passes out through the casing, and its end is arranged opposite the feeding-eccentric E. The slot it permits the feed-wheel to be drawn back without disturb ing lever N. In a recess, :0, in the wall of ring 1" is placed a roller, y, and behind this roller is placed a spring, .2, whichtends to wedge said roller into the narrower part of the recess w, and so cause it to press against the base or hub q of the feed-wheel. The result of this construction is that when the eccentric E presses the arm 1; of lever N to the position shown by dotted lines in Fig. eLthe pin 10 will swing the lever s and turn the ring 1* in the direction of the arrow. This causes the roller 3/ to wedge against the feed-wheel and to carry it around also. When the eccentric E passes on, the spring a retracts lever N and brings the ring rback to its former position. In this movement of the ring, however, the roller y does not bite on the feed-wheel, and the latter remains stationary. In order to prevent the feed-wheel from moving too freely, I form an annular groove in its lower face, (see Figs. 3 and 13,) and place in said recess a wooden ring, I). To this ring I rivet or otherwise secure a ring-like spring of thin metal, I). This spring is bent down at b and b*'to rest on L, and produce a frictional contact between the ring I) and the feed-wheel. To prevent the parts I) and b from turning with the feedwheel, and also to regulate the friction, I employ a temper-screw, c, the point of which finds a bearing in a hole in the spring 12 The length of the. stitch is regulated by means of a screw, (1, mounted in the arm 1; of lever N. This screw is provided with a set-nut, e, and its end is made to impinge against a pad, f, of leather or other somewhat yielding substance set into a socket in the casing A. This prevents noise by percussion of hard parts. This screw enables me to adjust the end of lever 1; to or from the eccentric E, and thereby increase or diminish the effect of said eccentric at will.

I will now describe the stitch-forming mechanism.

Referring particularly to Fig. 3, g is the needle, which is fixed or set in a socket in the needle-bar O by a set-screw in the usual way. The needle-bar plays horizontally through a bearing-block, h, which is secured adjustably in a recess in the casing by means of set-screws '6. These set-screws act as pivots on which the block may rock, and thus adjust itself to the proper position of the needle-arm with respect to the driving-cam. Y P is a fork provided with a socket to receive the end of the needle-bar, which isfixed adjustably in said socket by means of a set-screw, j. This fork plays over a block, it, on the main shaft B, and a pin, Z, on the fork engages a cam-groove, m, in cam H. Rotation of cam H in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 3 imparts irregular reciprocating motion to the needle-bar or needle.

Referring now particularly to Figs. 1, 2, and 5, Q is the looper-arm, which bears the looper B. This is shown enlarged in Figs. 9, 10, and 11. The looper has two movementsone in a vertical arc and one in an irregular horizontal arc-which movements are imparted to it by the cam-disk G. The looper-arm is pivoted on a vertical axis, a, which consists of a pin with a head on its lower end and a nut above. 2 to show this construction. The head of this pin n is coupled by a screw-stud, 0, to the end of a short crank, 19, pivoted to the fixed casing by ascrew, g. This construction causes the looperarm, when reciprocated by the cam, to move in a vertical are by reason of the swing of crank 19, and the mounting on the vertical axis a permits it to be oscillated laterally on said pin, so as to give its free end a movement through an irregular horizontal are or curve. The end 1* of the arm Q is forked and takes over a flanged block, 8, which is mounted on the shaft 13, and a pin, it, in said fork engages an eccentric cam-groove, u, in the cam G. Rotation of cam G in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 2 imparts regular reciprocatory motion to arm Q in a vertical are. On the edge of cam G is formed an irregular cam, '0, which takes against the arm Q or a projection, 10, thereon, and imparts also to said arm the horizontal movement on pin a. This gives to the looper R an irregular lateral movement. As cam 0 only moves the arm in one direc tion, I employ a spring, 00, (see Fig. 5,) housed I have broken away the arm in Fig.

IIO

the tension by the pull is avoided.

in the casing around the main shaft B, to keep the block 8 and fork 1" pressed normally up to said cam 12. Y

I will now describe the tension and take-up mechanism, referring particularly to. Figs. 1,

2, 3, 6, 7, 8, and 12.

S is the cap or cover of the casing. y is the spool-holder; z, the spool, and a the spool-weight. T is the tension-post, provided with a bearing for the tensionbar U, and a slitted aperture, b forthe thread fromthe spool. The hole or bearingfor the neck a of the tension-bar is flared at each side of the post T, so as to fit said neck, as shown in 1 Fig. 7. The bar U is turned up substantially cylindrical, and is double-slitted from its tip to its milled head (1, so that when forced into its bearing in the post it will be retained there by the elasticity of its prongs. The thread 6 0 from the spool is inserted in the slitted aperture If of the post, and is then threaded through an oblique aperture, f in the bar that passes out through the center of the milled head (1, the course of which is indicated by dotted 2 lines in Fig. 7. By turning the tension-bar the thread may be wound around it as many turns as may be necessary to produce the de sired tension. As the thread is drawn from the axis of the tension-bar all tendency to alter From the tension-bar the thread passes directly through a hole in the end of the take-up lever V'. This lever is pivoted to the casing at fl and bears in its lower end a roller, h", which is kept 3 5 pressed up normally to the take-up cam F by a spring, t, which may be arranged in any convenient way. The thread 6 passes from. the end of the take-up lever under a keeper,

j, and thence'through a hole, It, in the end of 40 the needle-bar, coming out under the needle. The hole in the needle is arranged vertically, and the thread lies in the long groove in the under side of the needle and passes up through the eye. On the fixed axis of the wheel I is secured a plate, NV, which has a groove, Z, in its face, to receive the needle in sewing, and a flanged lip, m. A similar plate, X, is fixed to the axis 9 of the feed-wheel, and rests in the hollow in the upper face of said wheel.

0 This plate projects above the feed-wheel at its lip, (where the needle passes its end,) and this raised portion abuts against the flanged lip m The materials f, above the line where the nee dle passes through, are grasped and held steady 5 5 by these lips in sewing.

I will now describe the operation of the machine when employed in ordinary overstitching, as for sewing gloves.

The machine is threaded up, as above-described, and the stitch and tension properly adjusted. The materials f are inserted by drawing back the feed wheel through the medium of the lever or arm 1). The shaft B being now turned forward, the needle advances and passes through the materials f. Reaching the end of the outstroke it draws back slightly to .of the needle.

form the .loop, which is thrown up by reason of the needle traversing the groove in plate X. In the meantime the looper R has advanced and descended to a position over plateW at the side of the groove Z, its projecting tip 11 (Figs.

9, 10, and 11) resting in the position occupied by the: reference-letter WV in Fig. 1, the tip a" pointing toward the loop over, the needle. As the shaft B continues to revolve, (the needle re- 7 5 maining stationary,) the shoulder 1 on cam 12', passes the projection w, the spring as throws in the fork 1, arm Q, turns on pin n, and the I tip a of the looper is thrown forward through the loop: The looper and the needle both now draw back, the former moving in an inclined convex curve and carrying the loop. The looper descends to a point over the feed-wheel occupied by the letter in Fig. 1, the recess 0 of the looper, Fig. 11, being now in the path 8 5 There it halts an instant,while the needle again advances,-and, passingclose to the looper-heel, protrudes its point through. the loop. As soon as-the point of the needle enters the loop fairly the looper draws to one 0 side far enough to clear the needle, (being actuated by depression 2 in cam o,) and then, actu ated by eccentric groove u and shoulder 3 on cam 11, moves across the path of the needle and over to the position of letter W again. In this 5 movement it frees itself from the loop which hasbeen last caught by the needle. The same operations are then repeated for the next stitch. 7 There is a slight depression, 4, in cam 12, which allows the looper to draw close into the needle 10o as the point of the latter approaches it, and insures the needle enteringthe loop.

- The take-up lever V is made to take up a little of the slack of the loop as soon as theloopertip has entered the latter, then to gentlyyield the thread as the looper and needle draw back,

and then,when the looper-tip has dropped the loop, to move smartly back and take up the slack, so as to draw the stitch tight. The form of the take-up cam is clearly shown in Fig. 12, I-IO wherein the lever is shown as fully thrown back in drawing up the stitch. The stitch is formed and drawn up tight before the eye of the needle enters the goods, but after the point has entered the same. This steadies the needle while I I 5 the strain is on it intaking up the thread.

In the principal figures I have shown the feed-wheel as actuated by the roller 3 arranged tobear uponthe exterior face of base g. In Fig.

15 I have shown it arranged to press upon, the interior face of the base q. The arm sin this constructionpasses out under thebottom of the feed-wheel, and. plays in a recess formed in L. Either of these constructions may be employed at will. 1,25

The peculiar character of my machine as. to adjustability also enables me to employ feed- 7 wheels of different diameters, and it may be desirable at times to employ such in connection. with the wheels I of different sizes, before men-v I 0 tioned.

Figs. 16 and 17-i1lustratethe attachment employed in binding or stitching hat-sweats. This attachment is secured to the arm J of the machine by means of any suitable connecting device. Ihave shown a bar, Y, with a sleeve,

5 and a set-screw. The end of bar Y is slotted, and the upright Z of the attachment is also slotted, and the two are adjustably secured together by means of a bolt, q.

A is a reel or spool to hold the binding-strip C is the binder, formed of a bent or folded metal plate, similar to an ordinary binder. This binder is provided with a guide, 7 for strip B, and a guide or support, 8*, for the rattan wire t.

D D are the plates between which the leather sweat E is clasped and guided. In plate D are cut oblique slots, through which oblique springs a press upon the sweat E.

These serve to hold the sweat in place and to keep it pressed upward properly. Opposite the springs u are indentations in plate D. The front view of the binder, Fig. 17, shows the relative position of the parts of the same.-

2 5 I have shown only a portion of the sewingmachine in connection with this attachment. The strip B, which is usually of oil-cloth, folds over the rattan, and is stitched fast to the edge of the sweat E, which is usually of leather.

0 Having thus described my invention, I do not broadly claim the feed-wheel made movable up to and away from a fixed abutment or jaw, as that was shown in a former patent of mine; but

3 5 WVhat I do claim is- 1. In an overstitching-machine, the combination, with the main shaft, of the cam G, provided with cam-groove u and irregular cam 12, the arm Q, provided with a fork, r,

40 pin 15, and projection w, and mounted on the pin a, said pin and the crank-arm p, the flanged block s and spring 00, and the looper R, all arranged substantially asset forth.

2. In a sewingmachine, the combination,

5 with the main driving-shaft, of the needledriving cam H, mounted on said shaft, the fork P, provided with a pin to engage the camgroove m, the block 75, the pivoted block h, and the needle-bar O, mounted to play in said block h, all arranged substantially as set forth.

3. The combination of the feed-wheel K, the basepiece L, provided with guide Z, the bar M, provided with pin 0, spring k, nut a, forked arm m, shaft n, and arm 1), all constructed and arranged substantially as set forth.

4. The combination of the feed-wheel K, ring 0*, roller y, spring 2, slotted arm 8, feed lever N, provided with pin wand spring a,

and the operating cam or eccentric E, all arranged to operate substantially as set forth.

5. The combination, with the wheel I, of the flattened arm J, the casing provided with a socket to receive said arm, the piece 8, and the set-screw d, to make the wheel I adjustable with relation to the feed-wheel, all arranged substantially as set forth.

6. The combination, with the wheel I and the feed-wheel K, of the plate W, provided with a groove, Z, and lip on, and the curved plate or piece X, all arranged to operate substantially as set forth.

7. In an overstitching-machine, the combination of the main shaft, the takeup cam F, and needle-actuating cam H, both constructed as shown, and set on the shaft relatively to each other as shown, whereby the thread is drawn up when the needle is at halfstroke, the needle-bar and needle, and the takeup lever and its spring, all constructed and arranged substantially as set forth.

8. The combination, 'with the tension-post T, provided with a suitable aperture to receive the tension-bar, and a thread-aperture, b of the slitted tension-bar provided with a threadaperture, f, in its axis, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

9. The combination, with the wheel I, the arm J, and the feed-wheel K, of the attachment for holding a hat-sweat while being stitched, said attachment comprising the spoolsupport and spool for the binding-strip, the binder 0, provided with suitable guides for the binding-strip and rattan, the plates D D, and springs Mu, together with suitable means for securing the attachment to the machine, substantially as set forth.

10. The combination, with the feed-wheel provided with an annular channel in its base, of the base-piece L, wooden ring 1), spring I), and screw 0, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

11. The combination of the needle-bar adjustably secured in its socket in fork P, the said fork provided with pin Z, the needle-opcrating cam, the wheel I, the arm J adjustably secured in its socket, and the feed-wheel arranged to be pressed up to the wheel I by a spring, all arranged as described, whereby the clamping-point for the goods may be set no at different distances from the body of the machine, and a l. rger or smaller wheel I may be employed, as desired.

12. The combination of the feed-wheel, arranged to be pressed up to the wheel I by 115 means of a spring, with the said wheel I arranged to be adjusted to and from the body of thecmachine, substantially as set forth.

In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of two subscribing I2 witnesses.

JEAN E. RICHARD.

WVitnesses:

ARTHUR O. FRASER, ELBERT B. BoL'roN. 

